Geary: A Quiet Corner of Skye with a View to Forever
In August 2019, I ventured to one of the Isle of Skyeâs most tranquil and tucked-away hamletsâGeary. Nestled on the Waternish Peninsula, Geary is the kind of place that doesnât announce itself. There are no grand signs, no bustling cafĂ©s, no crowds. Just a handful of crofts, a winding single-track road, and a view that stretches across centuries and sea.
đ A View Across the Sound
Geary sits on the northeastern edge of Waternish, facing out across Loch Snizort and the Sound of Raasay. On clear days, the view is nothing short of majestic: the jagged outline of the Trotternish Ridge to the east, the distant hills of Raasay and the mainland beyond, and the ever-changing dance of light on the water. Itâs a place where the sky feels impossibly wide and the silence is broken only by seabirds and the occasional bleat of sheep.
Sunsets here are spectacular. The western light spills across the loch, painting the sea in gold and rose, while the silhouettes of distant islands drift into shadow. Itâs the kind of view that makes you pause, breathe, and remember how vast and beautiful the world can be.
đïž The Waternish Peninsula: Crofting and Culture
Geary is part of the Waternish Peninsula, a region known for its rich crofting heritage and deep historical roots. Nearby villages like Stein, Halistra, and Trumpan each carry their own stories. Stein, just a short drive south, is home to the Stein Innâthe oldest pub on Skyeâand a small but vibrant community of artists and craftspeople.
The land here has long been shaped by crofting, a traditional form of small-scale farming unique to the Highlands and Islands. Though the population has dwindled over the years, many of the crofts are still worked, and thereâs a quiet pride in the way the land is tended.
đĄïž History and the Tragedy of Trumpan
Just north of Geary lies Trumpan, site of one of Skyeâs most tragic and dramatic historical events. In 1578, members of Clan MacDonald of Uist attacked the church at Trumpan, setting it ablaze while the congregation was inside. The MacLeods of Waternish retaliated swiftly, killing the invaders as they fled. The ruined church still stands, its roofless walls and weathered gravestones a haunting reminder of clan warfare and Highland resilience.
Geary itself may not have a dramatic historical monument, but its story is woven into the fabric of Waternish. Like many Highland communities, it was affected by the Highland Clearances of the 18th and 19th centuries, when crofting families were evicted to make way for sheep farming. The scars of those clearances remain in the landscapeâin abandoned crofts, in stone walls that lead nowhere, and in the quiet determination of those who stayed.
đ A Place to Reflect
What struck me most about Geary was its stillness. Itâs a place that invites reflection, where the past feels close and the present feels suspended. Whether youâre walking the coastal path, watching the light shift over the loch, or simply sitting outside a croft with a cup of tea, Geary offers something rare: peace.
If youâre exploring the Isle of Skye and want to step off the beaten path, Geary is worth the detour. It wonât shout for your attentionâbut it will stay with you long after youâve gone. In its quiet beauty and deep history, Geary reminds us that sometimes the smallest places hold the biggest stories.
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