When you stand in Ushuaia, Argentina—the southernmost city on Earth—you feel like you’ve reached the end of the map. Beyond the harbor, the Beagle Channel stretches toward Antarctica, and behind you, the jagged peaks of the Andes rise like frozen sentinels. It’s a...
When you tell people you’re going to Antarctica, they usually picture you stepping off a plane onto a sheet of ice, penguins waddling in the background like extras in a nature documentary. The reality? It starts in Ushuaia, Argentina, a city perched at the edge of...