There’s a special kind of anticipation that comes with a Munro day. The night before, the rucksack is packed, boots are checked, and the forecast is studied with a mixture of hope and caution. Today, the plan is to climb Beinn Ghlas, a Munro that often slips under the radar, and then continue along the ridge to Ben Lawers, the tenth highest Munro in Scotland. Together, they form one of the most accessible yet dramatic high‑level walks in the southern Highlands.
Setting Out from the Ben Lawers Car Park
The morning begins at the Ben Lawers car park, perched high above Loch Tay. Even before setting foot on the trail, the views are expansive. The loch stretches long and silver below, framed by rolling hills that fade into mist. The air is sharp, the kind of cold that promises snow higher up, and the wind carries a bite that reminds me this is exposed country.
The path is clear from the start, a well‑trodden line through heather and grass. It feels reassuring, especially knowing that the route will climb quickly into high ground where visibility and footing can change in an instant.
The Steady Climb to Beinn Ghlas
The ascent to Beinn Ghlas is steady rather than steep, the path winding upwards across open slopes. The ground is firm underfoot, but the exposure is already noticeable. There are no trees here, no shelter, just the wide sweep of hillside rising into the sky.
As height is gained, the air grows colder. The wind strengthens, tugging at jackets and reminding me that this is a high‑level walk where weather is the real challenge. Snow patches begin to appear, clinging to hollows and ridges, crunching under boots.
The summit cairn of Beinn Ghlas (1103m) comes into view at last. It’s a modest pile of stones, but reaching it feels significant. The views open wide: Loch Tay shimmering below, the ridges of Meall Corranaich and Meall a’ Choire Leith stretching west, and ahead, the unmistakable bulk of Ben Lawers rising higher still.
Beinn Ghlas may be overshadowed by its neighbour, but standing here today, it feels like a milestone. One Munro down, and the path continues invitingly onward.
Traversing the Ridge to Ben Lawers
From Beinn Ghlas, the ridge path leads directly to Ben Lawers. It’s a clear line, rising steadily, but the exposure is real. At this altitude, the wind is constant, sweeping across the ridge with force. The path is obvious, but every step demands awareness.
The traverse is exhilarating. To the west, Stob Binnein and Ben More gleam in the distance, their snowy caps catching the light. To the east, the glens roll away into shadow. Ahead, Ben Lawers dominates the skyline, its summit ridge narrowing as it climbs.
The final push is steep, the gradient biting into tired legs. Crampons aren’t needed today, but the snow underfoot is firm, and the ice axe feels reassuring in hand. The cairn at 1214m is reached at last, and the panorama is breathtaking.
Standing on the top of Ben Lawers, the sense of scale is immense. To the north, the wild expanse of the Highlands stretches endlessly. To the south, Loch Tay lies far below, a ribbon of silver framed by rolling hills. The wind roars across the summit, but the exhilaration of standing here outweighs the cold.
The Return Journey
The descent retraces steps back over Beinn Ghlas. The ridge feels different in reverse, the perspective shifting, the loch growing larger with each step. The wind remains strong, sweeping across the high ground, but the path is clear and progress steady.
Dropping back towards the car park, the ground softens, the air warms, and the sense of exposure eases. The final stretch feels long, but the sight of the car park brings relief and satisfaction. Boots are heavy with mud, but spirits are light.
Stats in Brief
- Distance: ~9km / 5.5 miles
- Total Ascent: ~900m
- Summits: Beinn Ghlas (1103m), Ben Lawers (1214m)
- Terrain: Clear path, but exposed at high level
- Start/Finish: Ben Lawers car park above Loch Tay
Reflections on the Day
What makes today’s hike memorable isn’t just the summits or the statistics, but the character of the route. Beinn Ghlas, often overlooked, is a Munro worth celebrating — a fine summit with sweeping views. Ben Lawers, towering above, delivers the grandeur expected of one of Scotland’s highest peaks.
The path is clear, but the exposure makes this a serious outing. Weather is the deciding factor here: in calm conditions, it’s a straightforward walk; in wind and snow, it becomes a challenge. Today, the mix of clear skies and biting gusts makes the traverse exhilarating.
There’s also the satisfaction of climbing two Munros in one outing, linked by a ridge that feels like a natural high‑level highway. It’s the kind of route that combines accessibility with drama, making it a classic of the southern Highlands.
Closing Thoughts
Two Munros, one ridge, and a day spent high above Loch Tay. Beinn Ghlas and Ben Lawers together offer a hike that is both accessible and unforgettable. Today’s climb is a reminder that even the most frequently trodden paths can deliver fresh adventure when the mountains are dressed in winter light.
The bogs and pathless ground of other Munros were absent here, replaced by a clear trail and sweeping exposure. Yet the challenge remained, in the wind, the snow, and the sheer scale of the landscape.
As the boots are unlaced and the gear packed away, the memory of standing on Ben Lawers lingers. It’s not just another Munro ticked off the list, but two-days of high‑level walking, of exposure and exhilaration, of views that stretch forever.
Now back to Edinburgh, to take a hot shower, and get a few warm meals into my system.
