A Winter Traverse from Inverlochlarig
Today is the day. The boots are laced, the ice axe and crampons stowed, and the crisp Highland air fills the lungs. From the quiet hamlet of Inverlochlarig, near Balquhidder, the adventure begins: a 12.5km (7.75 mile) circuit with 1,019m of ascent, climbing first to Beinn Tulaichean (946m) before traversing the ridge to Cruach Àrdrain (1046m), then descending back into Inverlochlarig Glen.
Setting Out
The glen is hushed this morning, the only sound the crunch of boots on frozen ground. Inverlochlarig feels timeless, a place where history lingers — Rob Roy MacGregor once walked these hills — but today it’s simply the trailhead. Ahead, the slopes rise steeply, streaked with snow.
The plan is clear: tackle Beinn Tulaichean first, then swing north across the ridge to Cruach Àrdrain. The weather promises snow higher up, so winter gear isn’t just precaution; it’s necessity.
Climbing Beinn Tulaichean
The ascent begins without a path, straight into boggy, uneven ground. Each step sinks into sodden turf, the kind of terrain that tests patience and legs alike. Slowly, height is gained, and the glen falls away behind.
Snow patches appear as the climb steepens, the ground hardening underfoot. The summit of Beinn Tulaichean finally comes into view, a rounded top dusted white. At 946m, it’s modest compared to giants like Ben More, but today it feels formidable.
Standing at the cairn, the wind bites and the snow crunches. One Munro bagged, and the day already feels like a triumph.
Traversing the Ridge
From Beinn Tulaichean, the ridge to Cruach Àrdrain stretches ahead, a snowy ribbon threading north. Unlike the boggy ascent, this section has a path, winding its way along the undulating ridge.
The traverse is magical. To the west, Stob Binnein and Ben More gleam in the winter sun. To the east, glens roll into shadow. Ahead, Cruach Àrdrain rises sharply, its summit ridge narrowing as it climbs.
The final push is steep, crampons biting into hard snow, the ice axe a steadying hand. The cairn at 1046m is reached at last, and the panorama is breathtaking: Highland peaks in every direction, each capped in white. Two Munros in one day, linked by a ridge that feels like a natural high‑level highway.
The Descent
Dropping down into Inverlochlarig Glen is rough going. The ground is steep, broken, and boggy once more, with snow hiding holes and making footing uncertain. Tired legs protest, but the glen floor draws closer.
At last, the car park comes into sight, marking the end of a demanding but rewarding circuit. Boots are heavy with mud, but spirits are light.
Stats in Brief
- Distance: 12.5km / 7.75 miles
- Total Ascent: 1019m
- Summits: Beinn Tulaichean (946m), Cruach Àrdrain (1046m)
- Terrain: Pathless, boggy ascent and descent; snowy ridge with a defined path
- Gear: Ice axe and crampons essential today
- Start/Finish: Inverlochlarig, near Balquhidder
Reflections
Today’s hike is a reminder of why winter Munro bagging is so special. Beinn Tulaichean demands grit on its boggy slopes, while Cruach Àrdrain rewards with drama and views. Together, they form a natural pairing, offering solitude, challenge, and beauty.
The snow transforms the ridge into something unforgettable — a crisp white pathway across the Highlands. It demands respect, but with the right gear and care, it elevates the day into something extraordinary.
Closing
Two Munros, 12.5km, over 1,000m climbed. The bogs tested patience, the snow tested skill, and the ridge rewarded with beauty. Today’s traverse from Inverlochlarig is tough, cold, and unforgettable — the kind of day that lingers long after the boots are cleaned and the gear packed away.
