Itâs March in Norway â that magical time of year when the calendar insists itâs spring, but the weather is still very much in its âcharacterâbuildingâ phase. Iâm sitting in my car in Oslo, windshield wipers squeaking across a thin layer of morning frost, telling myself this drive to Bergen will be fine.
Seven hours? Easy. Weather? Manageable. Me? Delusional.
With a travel mug of coffee and the kind of optimism that only lasts until the first snow flurry, I pull out of Oslo and begin the journey. Iâm not just driving across Norway â Iâm driving through seasons. Plural. All of them. Sometimes simultaneously.
Leaving Oslo: The Calm Before the Weather Mood Swings
Oslo in March is a study in contrasts. The sidewalks are half snow, half puddle. The sun is shining, but also somehow not. People are wearing sunglasses and winter jackets at the same time.
As I leave the city, the roads are clear, the sky is pale blue, and Iâm feeling like a responsible adult who definitely checked the weather forecast. (I did not.)
The forests outside Oslo are still dusted with snow, the trees looking like theyâre auditioning for a Christmas card even though itâs nearly April. The air is crisp, the light is soft, and Iâm thinking, This is going to be beautiful.
This is adorable.
Hønefoss: The First âOh Right, Itâs Still Winterâ Moment

About an hour in, I reach Hønefoss, and the weather immediately reminds me whoâs in charge. A gentle snowfall begins â the kind that looks pretty until you realize itâs sticking to the road.
This is where I choose my route:
- Rv7, the scenic, mountainous, âhope you like snowdriftsâ option
- E16, the more direct, tunnelâheavy, âhope you like darknessâ option
I choose Rv7 because Iâm here for the drama. Also because Iâm already committed and turning around feels like admitting defeat.
Nesbyen: Norway Starts Showing Off (and Snowing Harder)

By the time I reach Nesbyen, the snow has upgraded from âgentle flurryâ to âaggressively horizontal.â The mountains rise around me like giant, frosty guardians. The river is halfâfrozen, halfâflowing, and fully beautiful.
The wooden cabins scattered across the valley look like theyâre built specifically for cozy Instagram posts. Smoke curls from chimneys. Snow piles on rooftops. Everything is peaceful â except the road, which is now a slushy slipânâslide.
I grip the steering wheel with the intensity of someone who suddenly regrets not buying winter tires with spikes.
Gol: Trolls, Snowbanks, and Hot Dogs That Save Lives

Rolling into Gol, Iâm greeted by:
- A giant troll statue covered in snow
- A staveâchurch replica that looks extra mystical in winter
- A gas station that sells hot dogs so good they should be illegal
I stop for fuel â for both the car and myself â and watch snow swirl around the parking lot like Iâm inside a snow globe someone keeps shaking.
Back on the road, the climb begins. The snow thickens. The wind picks up. The mountains loom. Iâm entering the part of Norway where the weather has no rules.
Hardangervidda: The Arctic Surprise

Suddenly, Iâm on Hardangervidda, and it feels like Iâve driven straight into the Arctic. The landscape is a vast, white expanse. Snowdrifts tower on either side of the road. The sky is a dramatic gray, the kind that makes you wonder if you should have updated your will.
The wind howls across the plateau, rocking the car gently â like a reminder that nature is powerful and I am but a humble driver with mediocre winterâdriving skills.
Sheep are nowhere to be seen. Even they know better in March.
I pass snowplows the size of small buildings, clearing the road with the confidence of creatures who have seen things.
Geilo: A Ski Town in Its Natural Habitat

Descending slightly, I reach Geilo, a ski resort town that is absolutely thriving in March. People in neon ski jackets cross the road with skis over their shoulders. Kids zoom past on sleds. The whole town smells faintly of hot chocolate and adventure.
I stop for a cinnamon bun because it feels spiritually necessary.
The snow eases for a moment, giving me a false sense of security. I get back in the car, feeling warm, caffeinated, and ready for whatever comes next.
I should not feel this confident.
The Descent: Waterfalls, Slush, and Emotional Whiplash

Leaving Geilo, the road winds downward, and the weather changes again â because of course it does. The snow turns to sleet. Then rain. Then snow again. Then something that feels like frozen confetti.
I descend into Eidfjord, and suddenly the world is green again. Waterfalls burst from cliffs, roaring with snowmelt. The fjord glistens under a moody sky. The air smells like wet earth and pine.
I pull over to see Vøringsfossen, which is absolutely raging this time of year. The waterfall thunders into the canyon, sending mist into the air like natureâs own humidifier. Itâs dramatic. Itâs wild. Itâs slightly terrifying.

I love it.
Hardanger Bridge: A Fjord in Full Winter Mood

Then I reach the Hardanger Bridge, and itâs breathtaking. The fjord below is dark and glassy. The mountains are dusted with snow. Low clouds cling to the peaks like scarves.
Driving across the bridge feels like floating through a winter dream. Itâs peaceful, surreal, and slightly spooky â like the opening scene of a Nordic noir series.
The Tunnels: Norwayâs Winter Coping Mechanism
Back on the road, I enter a tunnel. Then another. Then another. Norway in winter is basically 50% tunnels.
Some are short. Some are long. Some are so long I start wondering if Iâm still in Norway or if Iâve accidentally driven into Sweden.
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At one point, I enter a tunnel with a roundabout inside the mountain, and I laugh out loud. Norway is unhinged in the most delightful way.
The Final Stretch: Rain, Moss, and the Slow Return of Spring
As I get closer to Bergen, the snow fades into rain â classic Bergen behavior. The landscape shifts again: mossy rocks, dripping forests, tiny villages with red houses and smoking chimneys.
The fjords widen. The air softens. The temperature rises just enough that I can finally unclench my shoulders.
Iâm tired, but Iâm also buzzing. This drive is not just a road trip â itâs a full sensory experience. Iâve driven through snowstorms, sleet, tunnels, fjords, and emotional arcs.
Arriving in Bergen: Rainy, Colorful, Perfect

Finally, I roll into Bergen, where it is â shocker â raining. The colorful wooden houses of Bryggen glow against the gray sky. The harbor is alive with boats and gulls. The cobblestones are slick and shiny.
I park the car, step out, and inhale the damp, salty air. Iâve made it. Iâve survived. Iâve lived through at least four seasons in one day.
And honestly? Iâd do it again.
What I Learn on This March Drive
- Norway in March is unpredictable in the most entertaining way
- Snowplows are heroes
- Hot dogs in Gol are lifeâsaving
- Tunnels are emotional support structures
- Fjords are dramatic yearâround
- And driving from Oslo to Bergen in late winter is unforgettable


